In an industry that is already swarming with those who seemingly operate on no sleep, it’s quite a statement to say that Kwame Onwuachi is one of the busiest chefs working today. But even a cursory glance at his projects will have you scratching your head on how the James Beard Award-winning chef fits it all into a day: running Tatiana, perhaps New York’s hardest prime-time dinner reservation to snag; as well as Dōgon, his equally buzzy Afro-Caribbean spot in Washington, D.C.; and his newest addition, Maroon, a Caribbean steakhouse now open at Sahara Las Vegas. And somehow, he still found time to write a new cookbook, All Hours: Crazy Good Food for Whatever, Whenever, which was just published at the end of September.
Maybe because Onwuachi hardly ever has a day off, it’s not surprising that the theme of this book is home-cooked meals. After all, if you’re spending most weeks jetting between coasts, there’s little more appealing than the opportunity to unwind in your own kitchen, cooking the dishes that bring you the most comfort. We caught up with the chef to discuss what those dishes actually are, plus his reflections on his homes, both childhood and current; and what makes New York’s food culture so unique.
On growing up in the Bronx
I grew up in a bunch of different neighborhoods. I started on Pelham Parkway—my mom and dad lived on 233rd Street. Then the North Bronx, which was predominantly Jamaican, but it was also diverse when it came to food: everything from Puerto Rican to Dominican to Vietnamese to Mexican to West African. So on, like, a one-block radius, we’d have 10 different restaurants from 10 different nationalities. And then I grew up in the South Bronx a bit as well: Jackson Avenue and Western Avenue. That was even more South American and Caribbean. And my mom’s a chef as well, so at home we ate a myriad of things.
Many of those cuisines are represented in the cookbook. There’s Dominican oxtail with moro; there’s the nutcrackers; there’s bacon, egg and cheeses. There’s a whole section on the “holy grail” of The Bronx: chicken wings, pork fried rice and egg rolls. That’s honestly how I eat, you know? I’m more of a comfort-based eater than an exploratory eater. I could eat Jamaican or Dominican food four times a week. I revert to things that give me comfort because when I’m at home, I just want peace.
On his mom’s influence on the cookbook
There are dishes in there that my mom made me from my childhood: the peel-and-eat shrimp is one. It’s got her house blend of spices, thyme, garlic and butter. Same with the Hanyeon chicken with lump crab gumbo. It’s a traditional gumbo with the chicken, but then a mashup because of the sweet soy, cucumber and cilantro. They’re her recipes, but I put my spin on it.
On an ideal night out in New York
Dinner at Fish Cheeks, probably heading to Tatiana to have a drink and check in on the team, then going to a show at the Comedy Cellar. The last time I was there, Kevin Hart popped in. Going to comedy shows is always something I recommend to people because they still get overlooked, and there are so many good places.
On becoming an L.A. resident
I lived there for about two and a half years during the pandemic. And now I’ve just moved back a couple weeks ago. I wanted to get a place out there because I enjoy the sunshine, and being close to Las Vegas is important now [with the new restaurant]. The last time I lived in West Hollywood, but now I’m in Woodland Hills because I wanted peace, serenity and to be a little bit out of the way.
I haven’t had too much time to explore it yet, but I have found a local restaurant I love: The Brothers Sushi. I’ve probably been there five times already, so shout out to them because they always hold it down when I’m in town.
But L.A. influenced the book in a different way than New York. I tend to cook at home in L.A. (if I’m not eating tacos or sushi), whereas in New York I eat out more. So, utilizing really fresh ingredients and great produce, you’ll see that in the recipes: there are probably 20 recipes in there that are dishes I made at dinner parties or after spiritual retreats, things like that.
You can’t be bored in New York; there’s so much that the city has to offer. And I would say L.A. is the same way. They’re two very, very culturally rich cities.