In today’s precarious culinary landscape, it seems like restaurants throughout California are shuttering weekly, especially in L.A. and San Francisco. While there have been several disappointing closures as eateries fall prey to the hospitality industry’s immense challenges, there is also a notable selection of family-owned California restaurants that have not only endured the test of time, but also thrived. They’ve weathered recessions and ever-evolving food trends, all without losing touch with what their founders had envisioned when they set out to start their own small business.
From a San Francisco seafood counter that still draws lines out the door to iconic Los Angeles delis and swanky Hollywood hotspots, many of the Golden State’s historic, long-running restaurants are living landmarks. Some use 100-year-old recipes, while others keep staff members who have been with the business for decades. All of them, however, have two things in common: longevity and consistency.
By keeping the business in the family, these renowned restaurants have been able to create a dynasty of their own, shaping the gastronomic landscape one generation at a time. Whether you want to visit one of Santa Barbara’s most storied taverns or dine at Sacramento’s oldest restaurant, these family-run institutions prove that some of California’s most noteworthy restaurants are also the most resilient.
Canter’s Deli
419 N Fairfax Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90036
Canter’s Deli is the city’s most famous Jewish delicatessen—it’s a defining part of L.A. culture, known for its mile-high pastrami sandwiches, hand-sliced lox and soul-soothing matzo ball soup. After moving to the West Coast from New Jersey, the Canter brothers decided to open a new deli in Boyle Heights in 1931, which was the city’s main Jewish hub at the time. The business eventually moved to a permanent outpost on Fairfax Avenue in 1953, and today, its retro appeal, old-school service and late hours keep locals coming back for more. Third- and fourth-generation members of the Canter family watch over the operation, ensuring that this classic L.A. institution stands strong amid a wave of closures.
Canter’s Deli.
Swan Oyster Depot
1517 Polk St, San Francisco, CA 94109
Famously one of the late Anthony Bourdain’s favorite restaurants, Swan Oyster Depot is a tiny, old-school seafood spot that highlights the very best of San Francisco’s no-frills dining scene. Swan Oyster Depot has been around since 1912, but Sal Sancimino purchased the restaurant in 1946, and it was passed down to his children in 1970. Even in today’s increasingly digital landscape, the restaurant remains steadfast in its adherence to a cash-only format. It only adds to the overall allure, and it’s a key part of the operation that the Sancimino family has no desire to change. The vibe can feel a little hectic, especially if it’s your first time visiting, but simply grab a seat at the counter and don’t be shy when it’s time to order. Preparations are simple, and freshness is key, but always order the off-menu Sicilian sashimi, the creamy crab back with crusty sourdough and the shrimp salad.
Swan Oyster Depot.
Swan Oyster Depot
Cold Spring Tavern
5995 Stagecoach Rd, Santa Barbara, CA 93105
Tucked away off the winding 154 in Los Padres National Forest, Cold Spring Tavern is a mountainside hideaway famous for its thick, oak-grilled tri-tip sandwiches. From the outside, the vine-covered tavern looks like a cozy fairy-tale witch’s cottage, with smoke billowing from the chimney, but upon walking inside, you’ll find stone walls and saloon-style decor that feels straight out of the Old West. The charming eatery began as a stagecoach stop in 1868, and though it was owned by the Doulton family (who purchased the tavern and 160 surrounding acres for just $10 in 1900) for a time, it was taken over by Adelaide Ovington 41 years later. Now run by third-generation members of the Ovington family, Cold Spring Tavern pays homage to its rustic roots with a selection of house-made chili, juicy burgers and tender baby-back pork ribs.
Cold Spring Tavern.
Shantel Adams/Visit Santa Barbara
Tadich Grill
240 California St, San Francisco, CA 94111
Tadich Grill, the oldest continuously operating restaurant in San Francisco, has been a Golden State staple since 1849. It began as a small coffee tent on Long Wharf, but this small business, built by three Croatian immigrants, now stands as a full-service restaurant in the city’s Financial District. Tom Buich, who started working at the restaurant as a waiter in 1913, bought the eatery with his two brothers in 1934, and today the Buich family still runs Tadich Grill, which features an extensive menu of more than 75 entrées. Much of the current staff has been with the restaurant for more than 15 years.
Tadich Grill.
Tadich Grill
Chao Krung Thai
111 N Fairfax Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90036
Before Los Angeles became a mecca for great Thai food, Chao Krung led the charge, bringing the flavors of Bangkok to Southern California in 1976. Boon and Supa Kuntee opened the restaurant and ran it for 40 years before turning the business over to their daughters, chef Amanda Maneesilasan and Katy Noochlaor. Many recipes have been passed down from previous generations, with highlights including pad Thai, crispy garlic wings and spicy drunken noodles. The interior at Chao Krung is moody, stylish and cozy, and the daily happy hour is a solid enough deal to tempt even the most dedicated of homebodies.
Chao Krung.
@candydergreat and @wethickandthick
Frank Fat’s
806 L St, Sacramento, CA 95814
Frank Fat’s has served Sacramento for more than 85 years; it’s the city’s oldest restaurant, and a vital part of the local community. The eatery is currently led by Kevin Fat, the grandson of the namesake founder, who carries on his grandfather’s legacy of comforting, homemade Chinese food. Expect classic Cantonese-American dishes like crab rangoon, orange chicken and Szechuan beef, all served in a swanky yet nostalgic dining room with red and gold accents, a full-service bar and the occasional smiling Buddha. The Peking duck is a traditional entrée that’s great for sharing, but you can’t go wrong with any of the noodle dishes, from chow fun to chow mein.
Frank Fat’s.
Rachel Valley
Philippe The Original
1001 N Alameda St, Los Angeles, CA 90012
Owner Philippe Mathieu was enjoying a typical day of sandwich-making at his small delicatessen in 1918 when he accidentally dropped a sliced bread roll into a roasting pan filled with hot juices. This happy mistake led to the claimed invention (at least, according to Mathieu) of the famous French dip. The restaurant relocated in 1951, and the SoCal legend is now owned and operated by fourth-generation descendants of the Martin and Binder families, who purchased the business in 1927. The signature specialty is, of course, the French dip sandwich, but it can be prepared with your choice of roast beef, pork, leg of lamb, turkey or ham, and is best complemented with a bit of Philippe’s house-made hot mustard.
Philippe The Original.
Philippe The Original
Musso & Frank Grill
6667 Hollywood Blvd, Hollywood, CA 90028
Hollywood’s longest-running restaurant also happens to serve one of the standout martinis in Los Angeles. Since 1919, Musso & Frank Grill has been a key thread in the social fabric of movie industry titans. Once frequented by everyone from Marilyn Monroe and Humphrey Bogart to F. Scott Fitzgerald and Charlie Chaplin, the restaurant is still a time capsule of Hollywood’s Golden Age, with lipstick-red booths and white tablecloths. The original owners were Joseph Musso and Frank Toulet, but in 1927, John Mosso and Joseph Carrissimi partnered to take over. Today, this iconic L.A. steakhouse is run by Mosso’s three granddaughters and their husbands, but several of the bartenders and waiters have been with the establishment for 40-plus years. Even decades later, it can be difficult to score a reservation (especially on weekends). Order an extra-dirty martini (served sidecar-style) with the filet mignon, a side of grilled broccolini and sautéed mushrooms.
Musso and Frank Grill.
Musso and Frank Grill
