Durango, Colorado, is one of the most underrated slices of mountain country in the American West. I’ve grown up coming to the area every summer, and am lucky to have a family home in a nearby town. My grandfather bought a small cabin in the woods for about $27,000 in the 1970s, and we’ve kept it in the family ever since. This quiet, rugged slice of the San Juan Mountains is my personal refuge, offering the occasional, much-needed escape from Los Angeles. And whenever I find myself needing a break from my ultra-remote retreat in nature, I drive about 45 minutes over to Durango, and remember just how much this former smelting hub has to offer.
As someone who has spent time in Jackson Hole, Aspen, Bozeman, Paradise Valley and Vail, I can’t quite comprehend why travelers continue to overlook Durango. Don’t get me wrong—those places are all stunning, and they admittedly offer more luxurious amenities and traditional resorts than what’s available in La Plata County.
And yet, those craving a western getaway that’s nicely balanced between adventurous and restorative will find Durango particularly rewarding, thanks to its pristine wilderness and endless outdoor excursions. In the summer, the scenic hiking trails are framed by lush wildflowers and the occasional rogue raspberry bush, whether you’re looking to stroll along the Animas River or get lost among the glimmering aspen trees while discovering epic alpine views. There are lakes for swimming, streams for fishing and whitewater rivers for rafting. In the winter, Purgatory Resort is a mecca for skiers, as the steep cliffs of Million Dollar Highway become blanketed in sparkling snow. While I prefer summer and fall to winter, the Victorian storefronts and railroad heritage are on display all year long, making Durango a quintessential thread in the history of America’s Wild West. If you’re ready to trade the crowds of Colorado’s more famous—and crowded—resort towns for something a bit more real and rugged, here’s how to eat, drink and explore your way through Durango.
An Insider’s Guide to Durango, Colorado
Where to Stay
The Leland House
721 E 2nd Ave, Durango, CO 81301
The Leland House is a family-owned hotel situated within a charming red-brick building from 1927. All 12 restored guest rooms have been outfitted with mini kitchens or kitchenettes, giving guests a home-away-from-home setup for long or short stays in Durango. The boutique inn is nicely balanced between storied, Victorian-era character and modern amenities like free parking and EV charging, en-suite gas fireplaces and Aveda products in the bathrooms.
The Leland House.
The Leland House Suites of Durango
Strater Hotel
699 Main Ave, Durango, CO 81301
Home to one of the world’s largest collections of American Victorian walnut antiques, the historic Strater Hotel has been around since the Gilded Age. The 88-room property debuted in 1887, and today, it serves as downtown Durango’s most popular hotel. No two rooms are the same, but all are outfitted with vintage furnishings, dramatic drapery and Bradbury & Bradbury wallpaper. Don’t be surprised if you stumble upon a hidden compartment or trap door, as the hotel has plenty of storied quirks that tell a tale of Prohibition-era bootlegger activity.
Strater Hotel.
Strater Hotel
The General Palmer Hotel
567 Main Ave, Durango, CO 81301
Also located along Main Avenue, The General Palmer has a similar Victorian aesthetic to the Strater, but is significantly smaller, with just 39 rooms. Stained-glass windows, vintage sconces and mahogany trim take guests back to the Old West, and each morning, a continental breakfast is served in the downstairs lobby. Open-air patio decks on the second and third floors offer a picturesque place to kick back with a local beer or bottle of wine as you watch the sun dip behind the San Juan Mountains.
The General Palmer Hotel.
The General Palmer Hotel
The Rochester Hotel
726 E 2nd Ave, Durango, CO 81301
Built in 1892 during Durango’s silver boom, The Rochester underwent a massive rebrand and renovation in 2022, transforming one of the city’s oldest hotels into a modern boutique accommodation with 15 rooms. It’s a great place to enjoy a little R&R after a day spent exploring the San Juan wilderness, and the convenient downtown location ensures that guests can walk to all of the best restaurants, shops and bars in town.
The Rochester Hotel.
The Rochester Hotel
Hang your hiking boots for an extra night…
Luxury lodging options are limited, but you can also opt for a stay at Blue Lake Ranch. This charming bed and breakfast is just outside of town and includes 17 different lodging styles, making it a great choice for travelers wanting a standalone cabin or cottage.
Blue Lake Ranch.
Blue Lake Ranch
Where to Eat
Eolus Bar & Dining
919 Main Ave, Durango, CO 81301
Fine dining is somewhat scarce in Durango. Eolus is perhaps the nicest restaurant you’ll find, and it’s worth the splurge. The dining room features high ceilings and cozy corner booths, but for a literal breath of fresh air and mountain views, head up to the second-level rooftop. Kick off your meal with the spicy scallop and pork belly skewers plate before moving on to larger entrées like the Five Star Duck, which includes a combo of seared breast and crispy leg confit, or the Skuna Bay salmon.
Eolus Bar & Dining.
Eolus Bar & Dining
636 Main Ave
636 Main Ave, Durango, CO 81301
New American cuisine takes center stage at this steakhouse-style restaurant that falls right between laid-back and upscale. During my most recent visit, I indulged in a freezing cold dirty martini with a floating lake of ice chips, much to my satisfaction. We shared a plate of seared tuna and ginger chicken potstickers, but the latter are what impressed us most. Other main course highlights include the sautéed beef tips and blackened sea bass.
636 Main Ave.
636 Main Ave
Himalayan Kitchen
992 Main Ave, Durango, CO 81301
Though Nepalese cuisine might not be the first thing that comes to mind when planning your food itinerary in Durango, you would be remiss to skip Himalayan Kitchen. I drop in every summer, but if my craving for chicken momos becomes insatiable when I’m at home in Los Angeles, I can hop over to the owner’s sister restaurant, Tibet Nepal House, in Pasadena. If it’s a hot day, cool off with an iced chai. The chicken tikka masala might sound basic, but their recipe is extra creamy and rich. Pair with a side of cheesy naan or go all out with the sizzling mixed grill platter.
Himalayan Kitchen.
James Ranch Grill
33846 US-550, Durango, CO 81301
On a nice day, escape downtown for a scenic lunch at James Ranch Grill. This burger joint also houses a charming market where you can grab local produce and gifts, ranging from handmade dishes to dainty jewelry. All of the burgers are made with grass-fed and finished beef, and many are finished with melted artisanal cheeses crafted just 10 yards from the restaurant. For a true taste of this western corner of Colorado, order the green chile cheeseburger with a side of crispy, seed oil-free fries. On your way back, run across the street to Honeyville and grab some jams or a bottle of hot honey.
James Ranch Grill.
James Ranch Grill
Meadow Market
688 Edgemont Meadows Rd, Durango, CO 81301
A bit further outside of town, Meadow Market is a gourmet deli and neighborhood grocer all in one. On the grocery side, you’ll find a selection of wines, including natural and biodynamic bottles from California, along with artisanal goods like locally made bagels and imported butters. You can also order a range of grab-and-go quiches, but sandwiches like the ham panini and corned beef Reuben are worth waiting a few minutes for. Every other Friday, Meadow Market also hosts a tapas night starting at 6 p.m., featuring quintessential Spanish bites and music on the patio.
Additional mountain munchies…
Carver Brewing Co. is a longtime favorite, best known for the pork green chile and sourdough bread bowls. 11th Street Station has a fun collection of food trucks, but Oye Durango is a slightly newer oyster spot that’s been a huge hit with locals. Perbacco Cucina is great for Italian, and if you can’t shake your craving for sushi or noodles, head to East by Southwest.
Where to Drink
Union Social House
3062 Main Ave, Durango, CO 81301
Union Social House is a neighborhood bar where locals gather over house-infused spirits, arcade games and casual food truck fare. One of the best patios in town, you’ll find Adirondack chairs situated around glowing fire pits in the evening, along with an actual greenhouse that’s used to grow the bar’s various herbal tinctures and garnishes.
Union Social House.
Union Social House
The Oxford
119 W 8th St, Durango, CO 81301
The Oxford puts a more elegant spin on the Colorado cocktail scene. From classic martinis to mountain margaritas, the drinks at this chic cocktail bar are made with premium spirits, some of which, like Woody Creek Mary’s Gin, are locally made. Gold-framed mirrors and curated artwork line the walls, creating a more sophisticated setting that can be harder to find in Durango.
The Oxford.
The Oxford
Diamond Belle Saloon
699 Main Ave, Durango, CO 81301
Step back in time to the Prohibition era at Diamond Belle Saloon. Guests are immersed in an Old West aesthetic, complete with dark wood-paneled walls, period decor and costumed servers wearing fitted bodices and feather hair plumes, while sipping on mezcal margaritas or whiskey on the rocks. This saloon feels like a true turn-of-the-century watering hole, and while yes, it’s pretty kitschy, that’s also part of the fun.
Diamond Belle Saloon.
Strater Hotel
Steamworks Brewing Company
801 E 2nd Ave, Durango, CO 81301
Steamworks Brewing Company has been a Durango institution for over 25 years, defined by its lively atmosphere and rotating selection of award-winning beers on tap. It’s consistently busy, especially during happy hour, but part of its appeal lies in watching the community come together over foam-topped brews, pizza and pub fare.
Steamworks Brewing Company.
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For another round or two…
El Moro Spirits & Tavern is a hip restaurant and bar located in a former historic saloon. Enjoy bright and refreshing cocktails like the gin-based Pepe Pino or smoky Sonora in Bloom while nibbling on roasted bone marrow or Korean-fried cauliflower. The Balcony Bar & Grill is a no-frills dive situation that can be fun for a bottled beer or standard mixed drink while watching sunset, but if you’re looking to do some wine tasting, stop by Baron’s Creek Vineyards or Four Leaves Winery for some unique fruit bottlings.
What to Do
Take advantage of the great outdoors
With the San Juan Mountains right at your doorstep, Durango is the ultimate place to throw on your hiking boots and immerse yourself in nature. More than 300 miles of trails are accessible within 30 minutes of town, with options ranging from a beginner-level stroll along the Animas River Trail to a more ambitious trek through the ponderosa pines. Other popular outdoor activities include mountain biking, horseback riding, fly fishing and river rafting. If you visit during winter, skiing at Purgatory Resort is a must.
San Juan Mountains.
Take the train to Silverton
Riding along the scenic Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad is a rite of passage for any local or visitor. This historic railway has operated since 1882, winding along the Animas River as it takes you past steep mountain canyons and jagged peaks, through untouched miles of San Juan forest. Once you reach the former mining town of Silverton, which takes about three and a half hours, shop the colorful streets before popping in for a beer and bite at Handlebars Food & Saloon. Though you can take the train back, I recommend having a member of your party drive to Silverton and meet you by car so you can cruise along the Million Dollar Highway during your return to Durango.
Silverton Train.
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Pay a visit to Bar D Chuckwagon
8080 Co Rd 250, Durango, CO 81301
Is the Bar D Chuckwagon technically for kids? Probably. Is it just as fun for adults (especially since they started serving cocktails and beer)? Yes. This live cowboy show has been immersing families in the Wild West since 1969. My aunts and uncles grew up coming here in the ‘70s, and the tradition has continued with the next two generations. Though dinner technically starts around 6:30 p.m., show up at least a couple of hours early to check out the village. There’s a mini train ride that the kids will love, along with a leather boutique, crystal shop and chocolate store. You can also explore the old-school chapel replica or pan for gold, all while admiring a towering backdrop of red rock-slated mountains. Once it’s time for dinner, you’re given a metal plate and instructed to line up for an authentic chuckwagon supper, where all of the staff serve different stations until you have a simple yet tasty spread of beef or chicken, baked beans, a piping-hot potato, fresh applesauce, a slice of spice cake and a bread roll. Then, the show commences, and you’re treated to Old West tunes by the theatrical Bar D Wranglers.
Bar D Chuckwagon.
Bar D Chuckwagon
Explore the nearby Mesa Verde National Park
Less than an hour west of Durango, UNESCO-listed Mesa Verde National Park is home to some of North America’s best-preserved cliff dwellings, built by Ancestral Puebloan people between roughly 1190 and 1300. If you want to go inside the structures, you can reserve a ranger-led tour, or stick to the outdoor hiking trails and picturesque desert lookout points.
Mesa Verde National Park.
More Durango to-dos…
If your body gets a bit burnt out from all the hiking, book a day at the Durango Hot Springs and soak in 32 different mineral pools. Reserve a massage or facial for a little extra indulgence. Yogadurango is one of my favorite places to ground and stretch; the serene studio, located on a second level, offers tranquil mountain views during your flow. Wander through the different boutiques and galleries, and for authentic, ethically sourced Native American artwork, pop into A Shared Blanket near the train station. Stop by Durango’s oldest jewelry shop, Lanka Blue, and thrift at the massive (and often overwhelming) Durango Antique Market.
